PERUBAHAN GARIS PANTAI DI NAGARI SUNGAI PINANG KECAMATAN KOTO XI TARUSAN KABUPATEN PESISIR SELATAN Garis Pantai, Abrasi, Perubahan

Abstrak

The  purposes of this research are to find out what is the value of wave activity (wavelength, wave velocity, wave energy, and wave height). (2) to determine the value of sediment transport. (3) to determine the value of the determinant (Go) abrasion / accretion factor. The method used in this study is a descriptive method with a quantitative approach. Data collection methods obtained from the results of measurements in the field, observation, and research documentation. The sampling technique used is by using purposive sampling technique. The beach will experience abrasion when the Go value is <0.0556, the beach is said to be accretion when the Go> 0.111 and the coast are balanced if the Go value is between 0.0556 to 0.111. The results showed that the average wavelength (Lo) at that time in the study area was 293,006 meters. the average wave velocity (V) at that time in the study area was 19.93 meters / second. the average wave energy (E) at that time in the study area, the overall wave energy value is about 0.278 Kg / s2. the average wave height (Hb) at that time in the study area was around 0.617 meters. the average sediment transport capacity at that time in the study area was 75.764 meters3 / day. In the coastal study area that experienced abrasion at points II and IV, the beach experiencing accretion was found in the sample point I, and the coast that experienced balance occurred at sample points III and V.